From Art Deco to Contemporary Jewelry

Art Deco jewelry piece

Many influences contributed to Art Deco style, including the geometry and abstraction of the Cubist painters and the linear forms of the Vienna Secession. Bold forms, polished surfaces and blocks of gemstones were characteristic for Art Deco jewelry designs. The emphasis remained on elegant vertical lines: necklaces hung low, often with elaborate jeweled pendant, while long earrings accompanied new short hairstyles. Indispensable element of any outfit was bracelet, especially gem-encrusted geometric link types, which were to remain in fashion until Second World War.

Black and white became a very fashionable combination in mid 1920s and black onyx was in great demand. At the same time materials of contrasting colors such as jade, coral, turquoise and lapis lazuli were frequently used together. Indian Moghul jewelry became inspiration for necklaces, often with a large pendant of carved emerald or rock crystal framed with diamonds. Jewelers also began to use Chinese motifs in their designs. Also African Jewelry became very popular, especially bangles of ivory or glazed wood.

A much starker and flatter geometric styles of jewelry, dominated by the forms of technology and engineering, was the main alternative to the exotic pieces. Surface decoration was minimal, and the functionalism of the designs was reinforced by the use of forms resembling machine parts.

Accessories became an essential part of women’s jewelry, particularly decorated frames for evening bags, cigarette holders and powder compacts. The geometric style of Art Deco was well suited to functional items such as jewelry boxes and vanity cases.

Fine jewelry of the early 1930s was often “all white” made solely of diamonds set in platinum or white gold. Round brilliant-cut was most commonly used. Elegant diamond jewelry continued to be worn in Europe until the Second World War. In late 1920s Coco Chanel introduced new jewelry style where she mixed genuine with fake, and evening jewelry with daytime clothes. She often used imitation pearls, usually large baroque ones, strung with a variety of colored glass stones. Although platinum settings remained typical for evening wear, there was a big change in the appearance of less formal jewelry in the second half of 1930s with the reintroduction of yellow gold. Flexible tube necklaces were made from closely interlocking identical links and often worn with a decorative pendant. Chunky bracelets with repeating angular or sot pleated forms were also made in gold.

Second World War heavily affecter European jewelry industry and market. However, American jewelry industry continued to develop encouraged by a very wealthy clientele.

Most of the significant jewelry made in Europe and America from 1920s to 1950s used precious metals and fine gemstones, and required the most exacting levels of craftsmanship. After the war a distinctive sculptural style of jewelry emerged in Denmark. The new style featured strong, softly rounded abstract shapes, usually cast in silver. The movement away from elaborate decoration to subtly constructed minimal forms spread through Europe and America, and prepared the ground for the experimental jewelry of the 1960s and 1970s.